Advice Requested On Issue With Electric Stove

joan crystal

Stove is over 25 years old.  Burners and oven work, at least for now.  About a week ago, the stove started displaying an error message: EO - F2 which translates, " computer panel is kaput."  Computer panel is used to set clock, timer, and oven settings.  I followed the on-line suggestions of cleaning the panel buttons and unplugging/replugging the stove.  Error message still appears.  Next step would be to call a technician.

Questions:

1. As long as the stove still performs basic functions, should I (a) leave well enough alone for now; (b) replace the stove now before it dies completely; or (c) call a repair person to have the computer unit repaired keeping in mind that parts may no longer be available.

2. If (b), what would you recommend for a basic stove (burners and oven), nothing fancy since I do very basic cooking.

3. If (c), which appliance repair company would you recommend?

TIA for your replies.


jmitw

how much would you be looking to spend on a new range?  that would be my deciding fact.  If you are only going to get a basic one for about 500, I would go for a replacement at this point.  The old one could be breaking down more often at this point and get very expensive to keep  repairing.


if you think you might be selling in the next 20 years, you do  need to consider the quality of the range more.


I got one that is BATTERY operated...so if the power ever goes out long term again...I still have a stove and oven.  I think it was about 550.  Its very basic, no timer, nothing digital.


you could consider signing up for the PSEG appliance warranty, I think there is a half month exclusion period, but if you sign up wait a few months (well past the exclusion period), you shouldn't have a problem using the  plan (worry free plans).  I had the plan on my old range.  it ended up having a recurring problem.  tech fixed it free and showed me what to do.  I cancelled the plan after a year (and now have a new range not as likely to break down)


the only thing i don't like is the broiler drawer doesn't slide out..but I don't use it much


I doubt there is a battery option for an all electric stove through (only for electric ignition)


John

If the stove is running basic functions --- cooking food, leave it alone. The clock and timer are nice but not necessary. If the oven is used, then that is different and would require repair or replacement.


Its one thing, if it is posing a danger. Right now, it seems just an inconvenience.


sprout

Stove computer panels seem to range from $50 to $250 (for the part only - installation would be additional).  You may be able to look up your part here:

https://www.repairclinic.com/Shop-For-Parts/a13/Range-Stove-Oven-Parts

Our stove matched the fridge and dishwasher, so we replaced our broken computer panel, and the burner that went out at some later point. It's still going years later -- but the fridge and dishwasher have since been replaced in a different color. So, next time it stops working, will probably replace to match the rest.


shh

personally, id sign up for worry free service with PSEG as mentioned above. The entire kitchen suite is not much per month, but you could do the stove on its own. They will come in two weeks. If the part is too expensive(parts are included in the service, BTW)  or they can't fix it you can cancel the service and you're out nothing except for time.

If you have any intention of selling within a few years I'd probably bite the bullet and buy a new stove. 

If you want to go the tech route I've heard a lot of recs for Normans Appliance.  


Mike
sprout said:
Stove computer panels seem to range from $50 to $250 (for the part only - installation would be additional).  You may be able to look up your part here:
https://www.repairclinic.com/Shop-For-Parts/a13/Range-Stove-Oven-Parts
Our stove matched the fridge and dishwasher, so we replaced our broken computer panel, and the burner that went out at some later point. It's still going years later -- but the fridge and dishwasher have since been replaced in a different color. So, next time it stops working, will probably replace to match the rest.

 This.  See if you can find what the new computer panel might cost, then add maybe $150 for service call / installation.   That would give you idea of whether it is practical to repair or replace. 


joan crystal

This morning, oven is impacted.  Oven temperature is now set permanently at 500 degrees and cannot be adjusted up or down.  Time to repair or replace.  Thank you to those with appliance repair recommendations.  If replace seems to be the best option, I would appreciate suggestions as to where to purchase and what to look for.  When I say basic, I am looking for something a bit more than the battery operated model recommended above.  Self cleaning oven would be nice.  I don't need multiple ovens or build in grill or rotisserie for example. Nor, I am looking to entice a future home buyer with this purchase.  


peteglider

with a 25 year old range, best to replace it. Note more and more self cleaning ovens aren’t really... the Whirlpool, Kitchenaid, Maytag (all made by Whirlpool, but others, too) use steam... but it’s nothing like the self-cleans of yore. (It uses less energy, but it’s also much less effective)

Can highly recommend Karl’s, Passaic Ave, Fairfield. Their prices were right away lower than even best prices on the web. Sears always had worst pricing, I hate how deceptive they are, the “outlet” in Essex Green often has higher prices than regular Sears, though if you’re ok with scratch/dent they have deals 

Before you go shopping check to see how many amps the stove circuit has, it’s possible what you have won’t support a self-clean.

Best with the purchase and enjoy the new stove!


Edited to add... at Karl’s you could spend $500 or $15,000 on a range! They have great cooking demonstrations, too, which if you enjoy learning new things are fun!


joan crystal

Thank you.  I decided to try first and see if the stove can be repaired, especially since I could get an appointment with PSE&G for tomorrow.  Given the age of all my kitchen appliances, I will ask them about their worry free plan but it seems dishonest to sign up for it now since I know the stove needs immediate repair.

Peteglider:  You just provided me with a good reason to try and repair the current stove if possible. My current stove has really good self clean and a dedicated outlet and circuit breaker (much larger than the other circuit breakers in the box).  Hoping this will be enough to support a new stove with self clean if I need to go that route.


peteglider

Good!

For reference, here’s a pretty high rated Frigidaire, it needs a 40amp circuit

https://www.karlsappliance.com/products/Frigidaire/frig/ffef3054ts.html


jmitw

not sure if they sell ovens and may be higher end.  i had a friend shop multiple mom and pop appliances stores.  felt he didn't get good service from jacobsons in elizabeth or park in roselle park.  he was very happy with elm appliance in westfield.  there was another mom and pop in new providence he didn't go to.


so if you want to avoid big chains and are willing to travel to westfield, i'd look into that.


Rob_Sandow

This is just a hunch on my part, but I have had a very similar sounding problem with my range, and the fix turned out to be simple and free.  Mine is a Maytag, so YMMV but here's how I fixed it.  I made the assumption that there was probably loose wiring between the control panel with the buttons and the display, and the rest of the control unit.  I took the back cover off the top of the range that's behind the control panel, and found that the control panel is connected to everything else with a single ribbon cable that has no mechanical connector.  The ribbon cable is just pushed into a socket on the back of the control panel.  I pulled the cable out, cleaned the end that gets pushed into the socket, pushed the cable back in, and everything works again.  It's a system that probably saves them $1 in the manufacturing process, rather than using a cable with a mechanical connector on the end, but keeps repair people working, and shortens the life of a lot of appliances, so no real downside for the manufacturer.  


joan crystal
Rob_Sandow said:
This is just a hunch on my part, but I have had a very similar sounding problem with my range, and the fix turned out to be simple and free.  Mine is a Maytag, so YMMV but here's how I fixed it.  I made the assumption that there was probably loose wiring between the control panel with the buttons and the display, and the rest of the control unit.  I took the back cover off the top of the range that's behind the control panel, and found that the control panel is connected to everything else with a single ribbon cable that has no mechanical connector.  The ribbon cable is just pushed into a socket on the back of the control panel.  I pulled the cable out, cleaned the end that gets pushed into the socket, pushed the cable back in, and everything works again.  It's a system that probably saves them $1 in the manufacturing process, rather than using a cable with a mechanical connector on the end, but keeps repair people working, and shortens the life of a lot of appliances, so no real downside for the manufacturer.  

 Thank you.  I hope you are correct and the repair will prove to be an easy one.  Even if I was strong enough to move the stove far enough from the wall to remove the back, I would not want to risk playing with wiring.  Repair person is coming tomorrow.


Rob_Sandow
joan_crystal said:
 Thank you.  I hope you are correct and the repair will prove to be an easy one.  Even if I was strong enough to move the stove far enough from the wall to remove the back, I would not want to risk playing with wiring.  Repair person is coming tomorrow.

 Joan, at least you can pass on this information to the repair person.  Glad to be of help.



peteglider

Joan, are you baking up a storm again?


FilmCarp
Rob_Sandow said:
This is just a hunch on my part, but I have had a very similar sounding problem with my range, and the fix turned out to be simple and free.  Mine is a Maytag, so YMMV but here's how I fixed it.  I made the assumption that there was probably loose wiring between the control panel with the buttons and the display, and the rest of the control unit.  I took the back cover off the top of the range that's behind the control panel, and found that the control panel is connected to everything else with a single ribbon cable that has no mechanical connector.  The ribbon cable is just pushed into a socket on the back of the control panel.  I pulled the cable out, cleaned the end that gets pushed into the socket, pushed the cable back in, and everything works again.  It's a system that probably saves them $1 in the manufacturing process, rather than using a cable with a mechanical connector on the end, but keeps repair people working, and shortens the life of a lot of appliances, so no real downside for the manufacturer.  

 Rob, can I suggest that when you are giving advice like this you always start with unplugging the stove.  




In order to add a comment – you must Join this community – Click here to do so.