Rope Caulk installation techniques archived
Oct 1, 2009 at 12:47pm
you might think about something easier -- there is a great, aerosol, clear "caulk" sealer that goes on very easily on the inside of the windows.
the best part -- in the spring, it just peels right off -- no damage to paint/stain.
can't recall who makes it -- maybe 3M?
the best part -- in the spring, it just peels right off -- no damage to paint/stain.
can't recall who makes it -- maybe 3M?
Dap...I just checked.
So, questions from a newbie...what does this do? Obviously eliminates window drafts, so you just apply it to the edges between window and frame to temporarily eliminate drafts? (So you cannot open windows without undoing the caulking.) Then in the Spring you can peel it off?
Does it really help? We have old windows and storms, but we still do get some drafts. (Not interested in replacing the windows.)
So, questions from a newbie...what does this do? Obviously eliminates window drafts, so you just apply it to the edges between window and frame to temporarily eliminate drafts? (So you cannot open windows without undoing the caulking.) Then in the Spring you can peel it off?
Does it really help? We have old windows and storms, but we still do get some drafts. (Not interested in replacing the windows.)
I am planning on peeling off the the rope caulk in the spring otherwise I can't put the screens back in place.
Yes - My purpose in dong this is to greatly DECREASE the drafts that blow through our window even though there are storms on the exterior.
(Next we will have to take a close look at the ancient weatherstripping around the doors.)
Yes - My purpose in dong this is to greatly DECREASE the drafts that blow through our window even though there are storms on the exterior.
(Next we will have to take a close look at the ancient weatherstripping around the doors.)
Did some snooping and looks like the product peteglider mentioned is DAP Seal + Peel # 18354. It's traditional chaulk gun install, not an aerosol. Ratings on amazon are mostly positive, but many warnings to ventilate rooms because fumes are strong upon application. Looks like this week is the time to do this with temps high enough to run fans/exhaust.
FWIW: The rope rope caulk from Bunchers is by MorTite.
It is a grey roll of putty strips about the diameter of clothesline. It simply presses into place and has no fumes. It is paintable if you'd like.
It is a grey roll of putty strips about the diameter of clothesline. It simply presses into place and has no fumes. It is paintable if you'd like.
My concern about rope caulk is that it always seems to fall down after a while.
usually the surface you apply to is a mite dirty, quick wioe with a cleaner(windex) etc, cleans the surface for best adhesion! Good luck, you also might want to "soften" it up by heating in oven( just a little) or try a piece in the micro( it brings the oil to the surface for best "stickability" Good luck, Wolfy
Oct 4, 2009 at 11:25am Edited
FYI the DAP Seal + Peel is available at Home Depot. $5 per tube. It's labeled "vanilla scent" which sounds ridiculous.
I started doing this after I wet to a lecture at the Durand Hedden house about maintaining and repairing windows in the older home. The argument was made that if you added up all of the small leaks in a drafty house, they would be equal to leaving a window completely open. If you'd take the trouble to close a window in the winter, you should be willing to take the time to seal up those drafty leaks. It made sense to me.
Another tip for once the temperature dips and you have the heat on, if you see frost/humidity on a window, it's got a leak. Look at whether it's the storm or the interior window. Add caulk to seal the one that doesn't have the condensation.
Another tip for once the temperature dips and you have the heat on, if you see frost/humidity on a window, it's got a leak. Look at whether it's the storm or the interior window. Add caulk to seal the one that doesn't have the condensation.
You can not reply as this discussion is Closed!
Here are my questions:
1) How is the indoor/outdoor (larger box) used? Is it necessary?
2) Do I need to seal both the interior of the window and the exterior of the storm window on each window?
3) I suppose double-hungs have 5 edges to seal if you include the horizontal bit in the middle.
4) Should I leave one window in each room "unsealed" for ventilation?
5) Will it really come off without messing-up the wood?
These drafts must end!