Ask a car guy!
Bsnapps -- thank you so much for this.
Yesterday, my 2010 Ford Flex started "revving" while my husband was driving it. This had never happened before. Only the tacometer was "revving"; he was otherwise in contol of the car. It only happened for a short while after he got off the highway, and it did not occur on our way home. After the "revving" we pulled over and adjusted the floor mat under his feet as well as made sure the car was in the proper gear (it's an automatic transmission). We are taking the car to the dealer today to have it checked out, but could it be something as simple as a floor mat "stuck" under the gas pedal?
Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
Yesterday, my 2010 Ford Flex started "revving" while my husband was driving it. This had never happened before. Only the tacometer was "revving"; he was otherwise in contol of the car. It only happened for a short while after he got off the highway, and it did not occur on our way home. After the "revving" we pulled over and adjusted the floor mat under his feet as well as made sure the car was in the proper gear (it's an automatic transmission). We are taking the car to the dealer today to have it checked out, but could it be something as simple as a floor mat "stuck" under the gas pedal?
Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
Thanks so much for the offer, @Bsnapps
My spouse has that car today, but I'll PM you if something might work out.
My spouse has that car today, but I'll PM you if something might work out.
gilora said:
Bsnapps -- thank you so much for this.
Yesterday, my 2010 Ford Flex started "revving" while my husband was driving it. This had never happened before. Only the tacometer was "revving"; he was otherwise in contol of the car. It only happened for a short while after he got off the highway, and it did not occur on our way home. After the "revving" we pulled over and adjusted the floor mat under his feet as well as made sure the car was in the proper gear (it's an automatic transmission). We are taking the car to the dealer today to have it checked out, but could it be something as simple as a floor mat "stuck" under the gas pedal?
Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
Just a thought if the mat was under the pedal it wouldn't cause it to rev it would be a lack there of . Did the cel (check engine light) come on? If so I have a scanner I believe that vehicle has an electric throttle not too informed on those but it used to be a throttle position sensor or maf sensor that caused that just fixed a similar issue with my own truck
sprout said:
Thanks so much for the offer, @Bsnapps
My spouse has that car today, but I'll PM you if something might work out.
Kk
Thanks kathy - For sure it was really cold. No clue about the gas level. Funny thing is, I had never in my life heard of frozen fuel lines till this winter, but just mentioned it to the mechanic conversationally a while ago, and he said it was no longer a problem, I think he said because of % ethanol winter formulation. (and how's that for a run-on sentence!)
Bsnapps said:
gilora said:
Bsnapps -- thank you so much for this.
Yesterday, my 2010 Ford Flex started "revving" while my husband was driving it. This had never happened before. Only the tacometer was "revving"; he was otherwise in contol of the car. It only happened for a short while after he got off the highway, and it did not occur on our way home. After the "revving" we pulled over and adjusted the floor mat under his feet as well as made sure the car was in the proper gear (it's an automatic transmission). We are taking the car to the dealer today to have it checked out, but could it be something as simple as a floor mat "stuck" under the gas pedal?
Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
Just a thought if the mat was under the pedal it wouldn't cause it to rev it would be a lack there of . Did the cel (check engine light) come on? If so I have a scanner I believe that vehicle has an electric throttle not too informed on those but it used to be a throttle position sensor or maf sensor that caused that just fixed a similar issue with my own truck
Thanks for the response. The weird thing is, no warning lights came on. The problem seems transient. I know Mr. gilora took the car to the dealer yesterday; I will follow up with him on what, if anything, they found. Thanks again.
May 22, 2014 at 8:46am Edited
Hey @bsnapps thought you might get a kick out of this.
When I tinker, work on cars or even when I'm doing my handyman work, if possible I include my kids as a way for them to learn valuable skills. Recently my daughter had the idea to create a YouTube channel of instructional videos where kids are doing the work. Whenever I include them, I walk then through what I am doing and why. I Explain how it works and then let them show it for the camera.
We call it Kids Mechanix, so far just a couple videos but I figure you might like where its going....
This one is a basic overview of how to change brakes and rotors: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XcX3arM-nZI
And one on plugging a tire: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F79pQANSPMc
In both instances (as in real life repair situations) a curveball was thrown. A nail too close to a sidewall and an almost detached wheel hub...but they did good explaining and recovering.
When I tinker, work on cars or even when I'm doing my handyman work, if possible I include my kids as a way for them to learn valuable skills. Recently my daughter had the idea to create a YouTube channel of instructional videos where kids are doing the work. Whenever I include them, I walk then through what I am doing and why. I Explain how it works and then let them show it for the camera.
We call it Kids Mechanix, so far just a couple videos but I figure you might like where its going....
This one is a basic overview of how to change brakes and rotors: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XcX3arM-nZI
And one on plugging a tire: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F79pQANSPMc
In both instances (as in real life repair situations) a curveball was thrown. A nail too close to a sidewall and an almost detached wheel hub...but they did good explaining and recovering.
I have 2008 Acura TSX with 4 wheel disc brakes. It is my second vehicle so it gets driven less than the first(truck) especially when there is snow on the ground. The brake rotors rust like crazy. I can drive in the rain for one day, park it, and in the morning they are rusted again. I've had to replace nearly new rotors after the car sat idle for 2 months of winter. Am I just dealing with subpar rotors? Do they make stainless rotors?
Why can't you just drive and do some gentle braking? Unless your rotors are heavily pitted, that should remove the rust.
http://www.ehow.co.uk/how_5579979_stop-brake-rotor-rust.html
http://www.ehow.co.uk/how_5579979_stop-brake-rotor-rust.html
I have a question. I need to replace the power outlets in my 2005 Forester. There are 3 - the cigarette lighter, one in the console and one in the trunk. I've been searching online for the parts and have found the cigarette lighter but have been unable to find the other two. I've been searching for "power socket" and "power outlet". Is there something else I should be searching for?
Red_Barchetta said:
I have 2008 Acura TSX with 4 wheel disc brakes. It is my second vehicle so it gets driven less than the first(truck) especially when there is snow on the ground. The brake rotors rust like crazy. I can drive in the rain for one day, park it, and in the morning they are rusted again. I've had to replace nearly new rotors after the car sat idle for 2 months of winter. Am I just dealing with subpar rotors? Do they make stainless rotors?
Happens to brand new cars on the lot. Its only a thin layer and so long as you aren't leaving it for years on end you won't have an issue. The first time you hit the brakes the pads will scrape off most of the rust.
Komarovsky said:
Red_Barchetta said:
I have 2008 Acura TSX with 4 wheel disc brakes. It is my second vehicle so it gets driven less than the first(truck) especially when there is snow on the ground. The brake rotors rust like crazy. I can drive in the rain for one day, park it, and in the morning they are rusted again. I've had to replace nearly new rotors after the car sat idle for 2 months of winter. Am I just dealing with subpar rotors? Do they make stainless rotors?
Happens to brand new cars on the lot. Its only a thin layer and so long as you aren't leaving it for years on end you won't have an issue. The first time you hit the brakes the pads will scrape off most of the rust.
That's what I thought and have experienced until this specific car. I had rotors installed in November of 12, the car sat in my driveway until Feb of 13 and I couldn't drive it. Had to replace 4 rotors with less than 200 miles on them. Like I said, now i drive the car one day in the rain to wake up and see rusty rotors the next morning. Something is definately wrong. Both sets of rotors came from and were installed by the same local place. Maybe I should just order my own rotors and change them myself.
Is this purely a cosmetic concern, or is the rust actually stopping the brakes from working effectively?Red_Barchetta said:
Like I said, now i drive the car one day in the rain to wake up and see rusty rotors the next morning.
Red_Barchetta said:
I have 2008 Acura TSX with 4 wheel disc brakes. It is my second vehicle so it gets driven less than the first(truck) especially when there is snow on the ground. The brake rotors rust like crazy. I can drive in the rain for one day, park it, and in the morning they are rusted again. I've had to replace nearly new rotors after the car sat idle for 2 months of winter. Am I just dealing with subpar rotors? Do they make stainless rotors?
This is somewhat normal, though some cheaper rotors will corrode in winter if left undriven for a while and road salt is tossed into the mix (which is what if sounds like happened). There are some zinc-plated rotors out there that curtail rust, but not sure what's available for Acuras. Only other risk for sitting too long is rust getting up into the caliper when sheared off, or wearing unevenly underneath the caliper giving you a dead spot.
drummerboy said:
I have a question. I need to replace the power outlets in my 2005 Forester. There are 3 - the cigarette lighter, one in the console and one in the trunk. I've been searching online for the parts and have found the cigarette lighter but have been unable to find the other two. I've been searching for "power socket" and "power outlet". Is there something else I should be searching for?
"Rear accessory outlets". There is a fuse that powers those two (behind coin box), different from the one that powers the lighter. May want to check that first before getting new outlets, if not already.
Thanks guys. It's not cosmetic, I'm about to install my third set of rotors in less than 1000 miles. I'll just get the best rotors I can find and do it myself.
Red_Barchetta said:
Thanks guys. It's not cosmetic, I'm about to install my third set of rotors in less than 1000 miles. I'll just get the best rotors I can find and do it myself.
To echo Mark's question, why exactly are you replacing them? Does the rust not come off when you drive and brake a few times? Does the rust actually prevent the car from rolling? (Which I think is unlikely even if the car sits for a long time)
Trying to understand exactly what happens that makes you feel they need to be replaced, there may be something else going on. Also, are you bringing it to a shop that tells you, they're rusty and you need new ones...if so...what shop?
@drummerboy, same question. Why are you replacing? If they're dead and it's electrical, the new ones will be dead once installed.
I brought it to a shop already and they said all three need replacement. two haven't worked in quite a while. The cigarette lighter finally bit the dust a couple of weeks ago.
I know he pulled the lighter and the fusible link was fried. Don't know if he pulled the other two, but he didn't find any obvious electrical problem.
Also, the suggested searches didn't help me find the part. Based on the lighter though, I don't expect the two other outlets to cost very much, so replacing them seems to be a cost effective approach, if I can ever find them.
I know he pulled the lighter and the fusible link was fried. Don't know if he pulled the other two, but he didn't find any obvious electrical problem.
Also, the suggested searches didn't help me find the part. Based on the lighter though, I don't expect the two other outlets to cost very much, so replacing them seems to be a cost effective approach, if I can ever find them.
For the outlets there are two separate fuses AND a relay (tucked under the dash I think). Did he check all three?
@drummerboy : maybe these will work...
Parts 23, 27-29
http://subaruparts.com/parts/2005/SUBARU/Forester/XT?siteid=218240&vehicleid=184602&diagram=7602310&diagramCallOut=27
Parts 6-7
http://subaruparts.com/parts/2005/SUBARU/Forester/XT?siteid=218240&vehicleid=184602&diagram=7602520&diagramCallOut=6
Parts 23, 27-29
http://subaruparts.com/parts/2005/SUBARU/Forester/XT?siteid=218240&vehicleid=184602&diagram=7602310&diagramCallOut=27
Parts 6-7
http://subaruparts.com/parts/2005/SUBARU/Forester/XT?siteid=218240&vehicleid=184602&diagram=7602520&diagramCallOut=6
ace789nj said:
Hey @bsnapps thought you might get a kick out of this.
When I tinker, work on cars or even when I'm doing my handyman work, if possible I include my kids as a way for them to learn valuable skills. Recently my daughter had the idea to create a YouTube channel of instructional videos where kids are doing the work. Whenever I include them, I walk then through what I am doing and why. I Explain how it works and then let them show it for the camera.
We call it Kids Mechanix, so far just a couple videos but I figure you might like where its going....
This one is a basic overview of how to change brakes and rotors: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XcX3arM-nZI
And one on plugging a tire: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F79pQANSPMc
In both instances (as in real life repair situations) a curveball was thrown. A nail too close to a sidewall and an almost detached wheel hub...but they did good explaining and recovering.
thats awesome ace ... they do a great job!
Red_Barchetta said:
I have 2008 Acura TSX with 4 wheel disc brakes. It is my second vehicle so it gets driven less than the first(truck) especially when there is snow on the ground. The brake rotors rust like crazy. I can drive in the rain for one day, park it, and in the morning they are rusted again. I've had to replace nearly new rotors after the car sat idle for 2 months of winter. Am I just dealing with subpar rotors? Do they make stainless rotors?
all rotors rust they are heated and cooled and repeat then they sit and oxidize . just drive it let them squeak for a few miles and bam back to normal . unless they are wearing unevenly dont worry about it !
drummerboy said:
I have a question. I need to replace the power outlets in my 2005 Forester. There are 3 - the cigarette lighter, one in the console and one in the trunk. I've been searching online for the parts and have found the cigarette lighter but have been unable to find the other two. I've been searching for "power socket" and "power outlet". Is there something else I should be searching for?
auxiliary power ... they arent called cigarette lighters anymore bud call dealer let them know and they will give you a part number you can trace online
My 10 yr old Rav4 has a pair of 3rd row seats that pull up with two straps that has some type of spring-loaded latch mechanism. One strap for one of the seats seems to have come detached from the spring-loading, and no longer hooks/unhooks the pull-up seat.
I looked under the seat, tried comparing to the working seat. I can see the mechanism for a different strap, but not for the strap that isn't working.
Any recommendations for someone who can fix this type of problem, or any info or videos on Youtube so I can try to DIY?
?? this perhaps?? its for a newer model, perahaps not that different (Rav 4)
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/275-3rd-generation-2011/415838-3rd-row-seat-stuck-stowed-position-how-fix.html
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Yes take a photo please though it sounds minute there is a wheel well lining which is ok if not flush as long as it isn't rubbing through tight turns
As for the front sounds like a piece of the bumper or fender got mis aligned where are ya I'm around for a few hours message me I'll shoot my number